What to See in Modica Between Baroque and IGP Chocolate
- Discover the "theater city" described by Gesualdo Bufalino
- Admire the strategic location of a city dating back to the Neolithic period
- Visit the monuments and sights of its late Baroque architecture
Modica: a Split Pomegranate
” …a town in the shape of a split pomegranate; close to the sea but rural; half cramped on a spur of rock, half scattered at its foot; with many staircases between the two halves, acting as peacemakers, and clouds in the sky from one bell tower to the other.”
Thus, suggestively describes Modica Gesualdo Bufalino in his book “Argo, the Blind Man,” presenting it moreover as a theater,” a proscenium of pink stones, a feast of mirabilia.”
In the author’s memory, the city, with the domes of its many churches resembling the breasts of Maria Venera, takes on the likeness of the woman loved in this memoir novel.
Historical Notes on Modica: Journey Through Time
Modica, which today has a population of just over 55,000, rises in the southern area of the Hyblean Mountains; chosen first by the Sicans and then by the Siculians precisely because of its impregnable strategic position, it reveals the first traces of civilization dating back to the Neolithic period, around 1400 BC. Around the middle of the 7th century BC.
C. in the Modican territory made their appearance the Greeks, and in the Roman period, Modica was a decuman city along with nearby Ibla.
In 827 the Muslims began the conquest of Sicily, and Modica, conquered in 844-45, during the period of Arab rule, increased its agricultural and commercial importance.
In 1091, with the conquest of Sicily by Roger of Altavilla, a splendid period began for Modica.
Liberated from Saracen domination by the Normans, in fact, in 1093 the land and castle of Modica in the Val di Noto were granted as a feud by Roger II of Altavilla, king of Sicily, to a Norman knight named Gualtiero, who became lord of Modica, under the name of Gualtiero of Modica.
According to some sources, under his successor Gualtiero II, as early as 1176 the lordship of Modica was elevated to a county and became one of the most important fiefdoms in southern Italy in size and historical-political importance, and its territory encompassed almost the entire area that corresponds to the present-day province of Ragusa.
Aragonese rule survived,the last feudal lords, the Mosca family, had their investiture reconfirmed, and in 1296, following the marriage between Isabella Mosca and Manfredi di Chiaramente, the county passed to the Chiaramente family and remained with them for almost a century; this period was, without doubt, the most splendid in its entire history.
In less than a century, churches, monasteries, palaces and castles sprang up.
In 1392 the Chiaramente family was succeeded by the noble house of Cabrera.
The Viscount of Cabrera, in June 1392 received from King Martin I of Sicily the investiture of the County of Modica, with the formula sicut Ego in Regno Meo et Tu in Comitato tuo by virtue of which this territory was endowed with wide autonomy, and therefore over the centuries considered a Regnum in Regno.
In 1480 the county passed to the Henriquez, by virtue of a marriage to a Cabrera, until, in 1702, due to high treason on the part of John Thomas Henriquez, it was forfeited to the royal domain.
Finally, in 1860, it was incorporated into the Kingdom of Italy.
Overview of Modica: An Essential Guide
Set in a predominantly mountainous and hilly landscape, immersed in the Hyblean countryside punctuated by characteristic dry-stone walls, today’s Modica presents a morphology that can be summarized in three areas; on the one hand Modica Alta in which you have the feeling that the various buildings are almost busy climbing the mountain; on the other you can admire Modica Bassa, down in the valley, once furrowed by two rivers Ianni Mauro and Pozzo dei Pruni, where now Corso Umberto, the main street of the historic center, the “living room of the city,” is located.
Modica Sorda, on the other hand, is the new residential area, built in recent years and increasingly expanding, known mainly for its multiple shopping centers, stores and modern buildings.
It was originally a point of passage for pilgrims, who stopped to refresh themselves at an inn, owned by a friendly old deaf woman, after whom the area was named.
The Historical Center
Truly exciting is the walk through the historic center of Modica where you will find yourself immersed in a jagged maze of streets and alleys.
Climbing through the rocky walls of houses, buildings and streets make the urban conformation of the city a succession of ravines and corners of rare suggestion.
Strolling through the streets of the center of this charming city you can admire the symphony of ‘architecture of the palaces and main churches, characterized by the notes of that typical late Baroque style that connotes the buildings of the Val di Noto, from the period of rebirth after the devastating earthquake of 1693.
It is precisely because of these masterpieces that Modica, along with a number of towns in the Val di Noto, has been included among the UNESCO World Heritage Sites .
Finally, you can end your visit to the city happily with a free tasting of the typical Modican chocolate, the pride of this town.
To discover the events and cultural happenings that enliven Modica, visit our page dedicated to Events in Modica.
Immerse yourself in local traditions and enjoy unique experiences!
Monuments and places of interest
If you want to taste Modica’s late Baroque architecture, you cannot miss the opportunity to visit first of all the Cathedral of San Giorgio, which stands majestically on the hill of Modica Alta, the symbol of the town and a masterpiece of Sicilian Baroque.
This magnificent church, with its imposing 62-meter-high tower-like facade, strikingly similar in several details to the coeval Katholische Hofkirche in Dresden, and elaborate interior decorations, is an outstanding example of post-earthquake Baroque art and architecture.
A dramatic staircase of 164 steps, leads to the temple’s five portals, which serve as a prelude to the church’s five interior naves.
The overall perspective is enriched by a multi-level hanging garden, known as the Orto del Piombo or St. George’s Garden, which runs alongside the monumental staircase, composing an evocative setting reminiscent of that of Trinità dei Monti in Rome and an ‘intoxicating atmosphere due to the combination of the intense scent of jasmine with the pungent aroma of pine resin.
No less important from an artistic-architectural point of view is also the Cathedral of San Pietro in Modica Bassa, the “official” church of the Counts, with its artistic Baroque facade and imposing staircase; after centuries of dispute, it was declared the Mother Church on a par with San Giorgio and is also part of the list of UNESCO Heritage Monuments.
Among the many churches in this city, the Church of Santa Maria del Gesù, with the adjoining convent of the Franciscan Minor Observants, also exerts its own distinctive charm.
Having survived the various earthquakes, this church presents unaltered the original architecture of the late 15th century, which can be particularly admired in its splendid two-order cloister in late Gothic style, characterized by the presence of many small columns, variously decorated and different from one another.
Among the examples of civil architecture in late Baroque style, undoubtedly noteworthy is the 18th-century Palazzo Polara, which stands on the left side of the Cathedral of San Giorgio.
The building introduced by a sumptuous staircase , with its elegant façade, in a scenic whole with the monumental staircase and the façade of the cathedral, dominates the lower part of the historic center of Modica in a striking glance.
Another jewel of Modica’s civic architecture is the late 19th-century Palazzo Castro Grimaldi, strategically located: from its terraces it is possible to enjoy a unique view that encompasses the wonderful historic center, the noble palaces of Modica Alta and Modica Bassa, and even the more distant neighborhoods that rise on the city’s hills.
The interior of the palace, with its precious details and elegant decorations, the work of the best Sicilian artisans of the time, as well as the well-preserved furniture, furnishings, and paintings, reveal the typical taste of the Sicilian nobility of the time.
Finally, if you are a lover of literature, you cannot leave Modica without visiting the birthplace of Salvatore Quasimodo.
Visiting Modica: Frequently Asked Questions
What are the must-see historical monuments in Modica?
Modica is famous for the Cathedral of St. George and the Church of St. Peter, magnificent examples of Baroque architecture.
Where can I find the best examples of Baroque architecture in Modica?
Baroque architecture reaches its zenith in the Cathedral of St. George, one of the symbols of the city.
What are the typical Modica food specialties to try?
Don’t miss Modica chocolate, unique for its cold-processing process that preserves the original cocoa flavor.
Are there nature trails or hikes in the vicinity of Modica?
Cava d’Ispica offers hiking trails through nature and history not far from Modica.
What cultural events or festivals take place in Modica during the year?
The ChocoModica Festival celebrates the city’s chocolate tradition, a main attraction along with other cultural events throughout the year.
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