The Tonnara of Avola: A Journey Through Time

The Tonnara of Avola, located in the seaside village of the same name and owned by the Loreto family, has a history rooted in the 17th century. Built in 1633, it was known as the “Tonnara del fiume di Noto” because of its proximity to the mouth of the Asinaro River, in an area known as “Balata.” Its strategic location, in the heart of the southern Syracuse coast bathed by the Ionian Sea, made it a hub for tuna fishing, an activity that has deeply marked the local economy and culture for centuries. The Tonnara of Avola was not only a fishing site, but represented a real industrial complex. In addition to the main structure where the slaughtering and processing of tuna took place, there were warehouses, sheds for storing the catch and even a chimney, a symbol of adaptation to the times of industrialization. A bustling fishing village developed around the Tonnara, the first settlement of today’s Avola. Born before the 1693 earthquake that destroyed the town on the plateau, the village of “Mare Vecchio” still retains the authentic atmosphere of Sicilian fishing villages. At first the tonnara belonged to the maritime domain. This, governed by a royal court, leased it to those who requested it, paying a sum of money. Later it was rented and purchased by different families. In 1700 the tonnara was sold by Baroness Anna Conforto to the Tornabene family. Some restoration and improvement work dates from this period. A palace used as the residence of the lords who managed it and a small church were also added. Other families joined the Tornabene family in the following years. The tuna fishery also had a church, testifying to the deep connection with the religiosity and traditions of the Sicilian people.

The Tonnara Factories

The factories of Tonnara di Fiume di Noto, established in the 17th century, tell a fascinating story of rise, fall and rebirth, intertwined with the historical events and production activities related to tuna fishing.

From Origins to Destruction

• 1655: The construction of the warehouses marks the start of the tuna fishery’s activities.
• 1660: Efficient and productive factories become the beating heart of the tuna industry.
• Late 17th century: Fires and storm surges, aggravated by the 1693 earthquake, destroyed the original structures.

Reconstruction and Development

• 1726: Ludovico Tornabene starts reconstruction, building workshops, a palace, and a new church.
• 18th century: Activities revived, with maintenance and improvements made by the gabellants.
• Early nineteenth century: A new relocation of facilities in Avola makes it necessary to rebuild the tenements from scratch.

Twentieth Century and Beyond

• Early 20th century: Lawyer Carlo Loreto renovated the complex, giving it its current appearance.
• 20th century: The tuna fishery undergoes a gradual decline, until its final closure.
• Today: The factories, which have been restored and enhanced, host cultural and tourist activities, including a museum dedicated to the history of the tuna fishery and maritime traditions.

An Invitation to Discover

The factories of the Tonnara of Avola represent a historical and cultural heritage of inestimable value. To visit this place is to immerse oneself in an atmosphere rich in history, tradition and charm, reliving the splendor of a flourishing era and discovering the secrets of the ancient art of tuna fishing.

The Lodge: A Giant Among the Waves

A grand structure, surrounded on three sides by the sea, which served as the beating heart of the tuna fishery. Expanded during the summer with a covered enclosure for drying tuna entrails. A round arch on the opposite side, the only survivor, allowed shelter for boats during the winter. Traces of the past: until 15 years ago, the scieri (rails for hauling tuna) and boats used for transport were still visible.

A Compendium of Buildings

On the left side of the lodge, a series of buildings follow one another, marked by time and wild vegetation. Basements below the master’s dwelling: coal and salt deposits. The factory: recognizable by its regular layout and long smokestack.

From Fishing to Conservation: The Evolution of the Tuna Station

The factories date back to the early 20th century, when processing in oil began, directed by the Genoese Diana. It was a modest canning production (about 10 quintals per day) that was not of great economic importance. The primary focus was on fishing and wholesale, with pre-seasonal agreements with buyers from Catania. Surplus catch was processed at the plant.

Decline and Crisis

In 1948, the tuna fishery went into full crisis, with staff reductions and closure of canning, and the Tonnara di Avola ceased operations after World War II, around 1950. Since then, the complex has been a victim of neglect and abandonment, suffering the blows of time and storm surges. Today, the structure is in very poor condition and is only externally accessible. Despite its state of disrepair, the Tonnara of Avola represents a valuable historical, cultural and archaeological heritage. Although access to the interior of the Tonnara is not recommended due to the danger of collapse, it is still possible to admire the imposing exterior structure and walk among the remains of the fishing village. These offer a fascinating window into the life and activities related to tuna fishing in Sicily. Various initiatives aim at the recovery and enhancement of the Tonnara, with the goal of making it once again available to the public and transforming it into a place of memory, culture and tourism.

A Heritage to Enhance

Avola’s lodge and tuna fishery factories represent tangible evidence of its glorious past. Despite the signs of time and abandonment, they retain a unique charm that tells stories of work, ingenuity and tradition. Their enhancement through restoration and recovery work would allow a valuable piece of its memory and identity to be returned to the community.

The Cyhalomes: An Ancient Echo Resonates in the Slaughter.

The Waffles: Songs of Work and Prayer

The Cialome are Sicilian folk songs that have their roots in the mists of time, inextricably intertwined with the hard life of the tonnaroti, the tuna fishermen. These songs, with their arabesque charm, are not simply melodies, but real prayers and propitiatory rites that mark the rhythm of the mattanza, the climax of tuna fishing.

A Dialogue between Soloist and Choir

The Cialome takes the form of a responsorial song, where the voice of a soloist, the cialomatore, leads the chorus of fishermen. As the tuna fishermen pull their nets aboard the Muciare, the black boats used for the slaughter, their voices rise powerfully, joining in a choral chant that resonates in the air charged with tension and anticipation.

Before, During and After: The Waffle Moments.

Cialomes accompany tuna fishermen at every stage of tuna fishing. Before the slaughter, they invoke divine protection and propitiate good fortune. During the mattanza, their cadenced rhythm punctuates the fishermen’s movements, infusing them with strength and courage. After the slaughter, they celebrate the victory over the catch and the success of the fishery.

Aja Móla: The Unison Cry of the Slaughter.

As the tuna fishermen begin hoisting the bottom nets from the death chamber, the soloist intones the first cialoma, a chant that kicks off the slaughter ritual. To his cry, “Aja móla, aja móla!” the choir responds with a powerful “Aja móla!” creating a sonorous echo that resonates in the air and charges the atmosphere with solemnity and emotion.

The Cialomes: A Heritage to be Revived and Appreciated

Cialomes represent an invaluable cultural heritage of Sicily, an authentic expression of seafaring tradition and popular devotion. Their poignant beauty and emotional charge transport us to a distant world of toil, courage and deep connection with the sea. Preserving and enhancing these songs means preserving a precious treasure that tells the soul of Sicily and its thousand-year history. Several recordings of Cialome exist online and in Sicilian cultural centers. Listening to them allows one to fully grasp their beauty and emotional intensity. Excerpt from an excerpt of traditional maritime songs The full text of the song of the tonnaroti Aiamola e vai avanti/ Aiamola, aiamola/ Aiamola, aiamola/ Aiamola, aiamola/ Gesù Cristu cu li Santi/ Aiamola, aiamola/ Aiamola, aiamola/ Aiamola, aiamola/ E lu Santu Salvaturi/ Aiamola, aiamola/ E criasti luna e suli/ Aiamola, aiamola/ E criasti tanti gente/Aiamola, aiamola/ Virgini Santa parturienti/Aiamola, aiamola/ Virgini Santa parturiu/ Aiamola, aiamola/ Fici un figghiu comu a Diu/ Aiamola, aiamola.

E assumma ‘u corpu/ ‘Gnanzù/ San Cristofaru/ ‘Gnanzù/ granni e grossu/ ‘Gnanzù/ ‘su purtava/ ‘Gnanzù/ Jesus on/ ‘Gnanzù/ ‘su lu figghiu/ ‘Gnanzù/ di Maria/ ‘Gnanzùùù/ ‘su Maria/ ‘Gnanzù/ Magdalene/ ‘Gnanzù/ ‘su di Grazia/ ‘Gnanzù/ Fustivu prera/ ‘Gnanzù/ ‘su di grazia/ ‘Gnanzù/ ‘ncurunata/ ‘Gnanzù/ ‘mmaculata/ ‘Gnanzùùù, ‘Gnanzù/ ‘Gnanzùùù.

And lina, lina/ lina,lina/ E lina, lina/ lina, lina/ Chi beddi occhi teni/ ‘a signorina/ chi beddi occhi teni/ ‘a signorina/ E lina, lina/ lina,lina/ E lina, lina/ lina, lina/ Chi beddi cosci teni/ ‘a signorina/ chi beddi cosci teni/ ‘a signorina/ E lina, lina/ lina,lina/ E lina, lina/ lina, lina/ E ci la ramo ‘o rais/ ‘a signorina/ e ci la ramo ‘o rais/ ‘a signorina/ e sia biniritto lu nome di/ Gesù!

Various associations and the FAI have envisioned several projects to enhance the usability of the structure of the Avola tuna fishery by creating a museum dedicated to the history of the tuna fishery and maritime traditions, with exhibition spaces inside the buildings and outdoor educational trails. If you are passionate about places related to seafaring traditions and the traction of tuna processing, you could savor the places of the Vendicari Tonnara and the Tonnara di Portopalo di Capo Passero, which played an important role in the routes related to tuna fishing and for the stories related to the life of the mattanza.

Tonnara di Avola is one of several tuna fisheries, now decommissioned, in the area. Also nearby are the tuna fisheries of Vendicari, Marzamemi, Capo Passero, and Santa Panagia. This gives us clear evidence of a flourishing activity related to tuna and bluefish fishing.